By Mark Grove
Co-writer: Dee Curtis

02/29/04 Back Catalog Article wanted by readers

When you hear the name Dan Torres and pickups in the music industry, ears tend to perk up or pickup, that's a joke get it.I know a bad one. And pickup makers like Seymour- Duncan and Di Marzio tend to take note. Introduction of this article and information on Dan Torres the amp and pickup Master from California, is by Canadian Guitar Player Music Consultant Dee Curtis.

The first time I heard of Dan Torres was when I was out in Los Angeles in the early 80's with a group of musicians, who were talking about Dan Torres who was and still is a guitar moding guru,moding their amps and guitars for them.

These guys back then got in touch with Dan through an ad in (Guitar Player) when mail order was the rage in the music business. So I sent away for some info on how to hop up your guitar and do mods to your amp, through his free brochures, and wound up getting some reprints of his articles which were in (Vintage Guitar).

I had a bit of electronic know how at the time which was helpful but nothing with tube amps. But through some of his articles I started tinkering with The capacitors and resistors in the amp head along  with changing tubes, to reshape the sound coming through the cab. I wound up using his Midrange tone control switch on every guitar I    had back then. Currently I'm not using them and I miss them.Dan is one of the top experts on amp and guitar modification and one a lot of top musicians use.  

Very recently, I contacted Dan about my (Sovtek Midget Combo Amp) and asked him what tubes he recommended because the Sovtek was sounding a little dark to me. I had some feedback from Sovtek on this and made some mods, but it was still sounding too dark.

I love the amp, but I wanted more sparkle and cleaner tones. Dan suggested I try( 6L6 GC Tubes) which will give me clearer top end and less mid-range and darker tones. I have them on order now and I know it'll sound beautiful.

Now, anyone who's a guitar or bass player I implore you to get Dan Torres book (Inside Tube Amps), which is literally the bible on tube amps, and it's  in laymen terms so anyone can understand how to--mod their amps or guitars.

Mark Grove: We first started this article with an intro on how Dee Curtis was first introduced to the amp and pickup master himself Dan Torres, but we'll end this section where we originally wanted to go, and that's talking about Dan Torres take  on restoring pickups and the fact he was  one of the first techs to start rewinding pickups for musicians in California. Dan also has a line of single coil and custom made pickups, along with new ones called (Torres P90's) and custom Humbuckers -- as well as SRV midrange and blues pickups.

This man is the master of pickup tone control along with other gurus like  Bill Turner (EMG founder and current resident pickup expert for Fender. In this interview with Dan Torres we'll venture into Pickup restoration and how to keep those vintage pickups just"hummin" along.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.torresengineering.com">www.torresengineering.com</a>  This is a "uber cool" site for players

I know another bad line. Dan is also known for his amp and guitar building kits which are popular for the more astute musician. This will be an interview you'll want to archive in your e-mail or site, so  get ready to be amazed by Dan Torres fellow musicians. Canadian Guitar Player talks to Dan Torres about the intricacies of pickup         restoration and when to toss that old heap.

M.G: At what point has a regular or vintage pickup for that matter outlived it's usefulness sound wise and mechanically?

D.T: Currently, since the beginning of magnetic pickups, virtually none of them have actually worn out. Even the earliest pickups, unless damaged, are still functional sound wise and mechanically.

M.G: What's the most common form of pickup wear and tear that has to be addressed when restoring a pickup?

DT: Most common wear is user wear. Pick damage to the top of the pickup, getting jabbed with screwdrivers, stripped screws and results of mistreatment. Magnets and hardware may rust quite a bit from an instrument that is allowed to get damp. Rust can push magnets out of contact with the pole pieces, causing the pickup to stop working correctly.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.torresengineering.com">www.torresengineering.com</a>

M.G: Is re-magnetizing a pickup important to gain back the original sustain and solid string pull?

DT: This is a very tricky question as the target tonal character of our most popular guitars (and pickups) is based on those instruments being old at the time they were used/recorded. That is--one does--not seek out a 1959 Gibson Les Paul with Patent Applied Hum-bucking  pickups to play "how high the moon" (a Les Paul hit of the 50's) they seek it out to play "Sunshine of your Love" (Clapton" or "One Way Out" (Allman Bros”)

The guitars that are the most treasured were in their "second life" as used instruments picked up by the young musicians of the mid  60s' from pawn shops,    etc. as very inexpensive, used, good sounding guitars. Therefore, the original  magnet strength - that is the magnet strength when this particular guitar was manufactured in 1959, is not the desired "effect". The desired sound is the       "old guitar" heard in the 60's, 70's, 80's, 90's and today.

A lot of effort has been put into demagnetizing magnets or finding old ones. Currently my collection of patent applied for original Gibson magnets sell for   $150+ per magnet if I will let go of any of them. (only about six left.)

M.G: Does the magnetic field become weaker over time yet produce mellower and fatter tones?

DT: This is easy, yes. But the magnet field has quite a long life. Even the oldest pickups we commonly see, such as the "Charlie Christian" pickup found on the 1939 Gibson with cobalt magnets still have more than enough flux to this day. Jazz Great Barney Kessel used to bring in his far-too-famous Gibson with the Charlie Christian pickup.

Those huge, very old magnets were still very strong and the best pickup (he had several) was very high impedance, 10,000 ohms. This pickup sounded absolutely wonderful, a magical musical instrument. A lot of experimentation was done in the 80's by many pickup manufacturers, with stronger or exotic magnets.

But the point of diminishing return was reached instantly. Stronger magnets may produce a louder pickup with more output, but the excess string pull caused damping, pulling the strings out of pitch so the pickups had to be placed quite a ways below light gauge strings, canceling out most of the improvement. The exotic magnets did not sound as nice as the wider flux range alnico or ceramic magnets.

M.G: Do hum-bucking or single coil's wear down faster and why?

DT: A tough one. Single coils, such as Strat pickups die more frequently, but usually due to damage. It is not hard at all to wear through the top of a strat pickup cover and damage the coil. P-90 type single coils use hum-bucking magnets (2) and have a plastic coil form, so we have a cross over in pickup structure between the hum-bucker and P-90.

The cylindrical magnets of the Strat and Telecaster pickup have a large amount of flux and will last several life times if they are not damaged. The earliest guitars still sound spectacular. Jerry Garcia replaced his DiMarzio hum-bucking pickups frequently saying they had worn out, but these pickups have been moving around here in the San Francisco Bay area, and do not seem to have lost anything noticeable. But musical perception is far, far more sensitive then any instrument.

Not hearing  them brand new makes it impossible to hear what Jerry heard. By their nature, single coils may wear down faster as the magnets are more subject to the real magnet killer, shock  being hit by the pick, strings etc.

M.G: With your handling some of todays top players pickups, do they think twice about throwing out their singles or hums, or even going to a different company for restoration?

DT: I usually encourage pros and amateurs to consider keeping vintage pickups in place if they are providing the type of tone they want. I find if the guitar feels right, but doesn't sound right, hand wound or new  pickups from ourselves and or all the other manufacturers can be selected along with appropriate potentiometers, tone controls, etc.

To fine tune the guitar to do exactly what one wants without butchering  a fine vintage guitar, many pros are choosing new guitars, or fine quality imports (Ibanez, Aria, Cort etc.) so they can make as many changes as they wish and have several identical guitars on hand without the super high cost of vintage instruments. Restorations are done if pickups have been severely damaged, are dead or partially dead, or in some cases--when they just look ratty, ugly.  

Rust can be removed and/or new pole piece screws and studs fit to hum-buckers, delicate work with steel wool can clean up strat--tele magnets. Most restorations are to dead vintage (valuable pickups) getting them back to life without losing their inherent musical character.

Broken coils are the main problem by far. With a very good eye, steady hand, and knowing exactly what to look for, the broken coil wire can be located and reattached without losing any more than one or two ohms of a 5,000 ohm pickup.  

The most difficult part of this process may not be finding the broken wire. It is treatment of it after finding it. Usually you only have one chance. The wire is coated with insulation that must be removed before you can re-solder to it.  Since the wire is thinner than a hair, and in some cases one is working with just 1/16 to 1/8 in of wire. This is delicate work.

M.G: What is the most common type of pickup that is replaced?

DT:Currently it is running about 55% strat--tele type and 45% hum-buckers, but it shifts constantly pretty much keyed by the current popular guitars in use on TV, Concerts and other media.

M.G.: Is restoring pickups for the most part something you should leave to luthiers or guitar parts restoration specialists?

DT: If the pickup has high value, yes, get someone with experience. A good eye, practice, and knowing what to look for can rescue a $200.00 Patent Applied for that may be totally destroyed by an inexperienced (or unsteady) hand trying to fix a broken coil wire. attention to detail will bring the pickup back to life as it should be.

M.G.: When restoring a pickup are single coils or hum-buckers easier to restore?

DT: Single coils are usually easier - they are simpler, everything is out in the open and easy to see, there are no layers of age-old tape to peel off,(a real difficulty with old hum-bucking pickups.)  But -"funky" type single coils. Harmony,  Silvertone, Danelectro, Kay etc. are REALLY hard to restore as they are often made on a budget.

Cardboard coil forms, glue and masking tape are all used in assembly pretty difficult to dig through. Some of these old inexpensive guitars do not even have coil forms. Just  a coil of wire and magnet. It is often hard to tell what it was supposed to be in the first place!

M.G: Are there any special ways of repotting, re-magnetizing or rewinding a pickup to actually improve it's tone and sustain in regards to string pull?

DT: I would not say "special ways" as much as the application of very good technique in all these technologies. Potting or repotting in wax (or lacquer) has to be at the right temperature so the wax soaks the whole coil, but not so hot it melts a coil for  tricky re-pots.  But once you have it right it is easily repeated.  

This will prevent microphonics, allowing the pickup to perform at a much higher volume level without squeal. Re-magnetizing may improve or restore the tone of a damaged magnet. Shock can demagnetize the magnet enough so it does not produce a signal. In this case re-magnetizing will bring it back to life.

Often more powerful magnets, such as Alnico 5 are demagnetized or redone to a lower "aged" level, to reduce string pull and get the effect we hear from vintage guitars.

A fairly effective process that may well increase sustain of a given pickup. But with our stock of new Alnico 2 magnets, it is often easier to just install a lower flux Alnico 2 magnet in place of an Alnico 5 for the lower magnetic pull, sweeter tone. Pickup winding is another story. Most of the "classic" guitars made in the 50's had hand wound pickups to some degree.

In a conversation with Doc Kauffman, Leo Fender's original partner he told me it was quite some time before he and Leo thought " maybe we should measure these pickups?"

In winding a pickup to get a good vintage tone a "scatter wound" technique works the best.The wire is not laid down absolutely perfect, but somewhat random, filling the coil by eye as it spins. This gives the pickup a more harmonic tonality - not so perfect is often more musical. Hum-bucking pickups, having two coils, are essentially unbalanced in the original Gibson Design. Each coil has a different iron load, therefore a different impedance. If the coils themselves are also not exactly equal, there is an effect of, again, less perfection  and more harmonic quality due to the slightly different tonalities of each coil.

Additionally the distance between the two coils picking up the guitar string signal at different locations (called phase cancellation) gives the hum-bucking pickup its distinct character. These factors can be manipulated to vary the pickup's tonality to very extreme extents.

DiMarzio is quite skilled at developing more and more new sounds from techniques like this,(and many others.) Observation of dozens of real  Patent Applied for Gibson Humbuckers,show coils that are "pretty close" but not exact when read with Digital Vom Meters,which were not available when they were made.

M.G.: When wiring a pickup are there techniques used to give your guitar a tone based on the type of music you're playing?

DT: This is one of our specialties. Besides all the variations in pickups we have discussed, we introduced the concept of varying the potentiometers to decrease or increase the load on the pickup, vastly changing the frequency response, gain and tone.

We also make a range of passive midrange controls that can be applied to any guitar to give the musician still farther range of tones from the "same old" pickups. One can start with new or custom pickups and optimize them still further for their use, or work with existing pickups by varying  the  volume controls, tone controls and wiring harness.

M.G.: Do higher prices for vintage pickups make it more attractive to restore the originals?

DT: Certainly, and  my customers, friends, are always on the lookout for guitars that "don't work". Restoration often does not cost much and we have about 90% success on dead pickups. The balance are rewound. Very few are discarded, maybe 2 a year out of hundreds. Finding a dead pickup and having it restored or even rewound is certainly the least expensive way to get "the sound".

Dan Torres

Mark Grove-CGP

To contact Dan Torres for amp or guitar pickups mods:

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.torresengineering.com">www.torresengineering.com    
</a>

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mark Grove,music industry writer from Canada.I write how to material
for musicians on guitar and gear tips,music business and artist
profiles.

We also offer an article writing service for musicians called:
The Musicians Instant Press Kit.

http://canadianguitarplayer.blogspot.com

Our site is called:Canadian Guitar Player

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/music-articles/dan-torres-on-guitar-pickup-mod-and-restores-1384374.html

Strat Guitar Pickup

How much would a hand made custom guitar go for?

I'm making a custom gibson explorer style guitar with strat. single coil pickups, its god a good paint job and play really well

2 factors involved, who made it and how bad somebody else wants it.

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Six-saddle Tele®: bridge modification is available for retrofit on any Stratocaster
A solid six-saddle Tele® bridge Option, which is standard on the new "Straotelia" guitar, offered by Haywire Custom Guitars of Myrtle Beach, SC, is now available for any Stratocaster and is applicable to all Guitar players who own Stratocasters.

Many thanks for reading our Strat Guitar Pickup article

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1. The very first thing you need to know is that learning to tune your guitar takes time.

Some things on guitar can be learned in minutes, some in days, and others in weeks, but tuning will sometimes take even longer, because you have to train your ears. If results come slowly or don't seem to be making any progress, don't be discouraged, just keep working at it.

2. It will help you to know that the ear is a very skilled instrument for taking in sound. Your ear hears four things in each sound: Pitch, Duration, Volume and Tone Quality.

Pitch is how high or low the sound is. Duration is how long it lasts. Volume is how loud it is. Tone quality is the "character" of the sound. If we were to play the same pitch, at the same volume, for the same length of time on piano, clarinet, flute, violin, guitar, doorbell, or car horn, your ear could tell one instrument (or car horn) from another because of the tone quality. That's because each instrument has a different "character" or "personality" of sound. You can prove you have this ability to tell one sound from another by listening to sounds without looking where they come from.

The point I want to emphasize is that you already hear very well. Learning to tune your guitar is learning a new way of using your hearing.

3.The next thing to know is that when you are tuning your guitar you want to listen only to the pitch of the strings. The quality of the pitch will differ between two strings, and this may at first confuse your ear. You'll mistake the difference in quality as a difference in pitch. For example when playing the first string open and the second string at the fifth fret, you may notice that the first string may sound 'crisper', while the second string will sound a little "darker" in quality. The darker quality of the string at first can be misunderstood to sound lower in pitch. (You may use different words to explain how the strings sound to you, but the idea is that the tone quality of each string will sound different). If you understand that the ear hears a combination of pitch, volume, duration and quality all at the same time, it will help you to filter out the quality from the pitch and overcome the basic problem of tuning.

4. The steps involved in tuning your guitar: The first step is to tune one string to a note from another source. You could use another guitar (one that has already been tuned), a piano, or somebody that know how to tune could guide you along.

A better source is a tuning fork. (It's better because you don't need anybody else around or any other instrument. If, for example you learn to tune to a piano, you're going to have a problem if ever you need to tune and there's no piano handy).

A tuning fork is a U shaped piece of metal with a stem on it. The fork is designed to vibrate at a particular pitch. You can get one that gives you the pitch of the first string on the guitar. (Look for one that has the letter E and the number 329.6 stamped on the stem).

To use the tuning fork you hold it by the stem, tap the U shaped fork against something solid, and place the stem (not the tip of the fork) on either the body, or the bridge of your guitar. (For electric guitars can place it on the pickup). You should hear the note which the vibrating fork produced. The note is the correct "source".

You now adjust the first string to match the pitch of the tuning fork. You do this by finding the correct tuning gear for this string and then turning the gear slowly in one direction or the other. After about half a turn you should hear the string change pitch either up or down. This will tell you which way you have to turn the gear to tighten the string (to raise the pitch) and which way to loosen the string (to lower the pitch).

Now compare the sound of the string with the sound of the tuning fork. If the string is lower than the tuning fork, tighten the string to raise the pitch. If the string is higher than the tuning fork, loosen the string to lower the pitch.

Go slowly. Do not turn the gear rapidly. Turn about a quarter of a turn and then compare the string to the tuning fork again. (You'll have to strike them both again). You'll probably have to repeat this process several times. When the string sounds close to the fork make smaller turns.

When you think the first string is in tune, use the following steps (one to five) to tune the rest of the strings. (Remember, you can only tune as well as your ears hear now. With practice, you can become a better tuner). The following steps repeat the process of matching one pitch with another. The difference is that instead of using a tuning fork you will listen to the string you have just tuned, and try to match the next string to this one.

1. Place the finger behind the fifth fret of the 6th string. This will give you the tone of the 5th sting. (A)

2. Place the finger behind the 5th fret of the 5th string to get the pitch of the 4th string. (D)

3. Place the finger behind the 5th fret of the 4th string to get the pitch of the 3rd string. (G)

4. Place the finger behind the FOURTH FRET of the 3rd string to get the pitch of the 2nd string. (B)

5. Place the finger behind the 5th fret of the 2nd string to get the pitch of the 1st string. (E)

Mike Hayes is a guitar teacher, author, performing musician and session guitarist with over 30 years of professional experience. Mike's methods are legendary and have earned the praise of top authorities in guitar instruction. He reveals his guitar secrets at www.GuitarCoaching.com

Many thanks for reading our Guitar Pickup Set article

Guitar Pickups
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In this material we shall take a look at some of the things you should look out for when buying a bass guitar. This will help you in better understanding bass guitar descriptions and reviews. We shall talk about different types of body styles, necks, scale lengths, tuning machines, intonation, bolt-on necks, neck-throughs, fingerboards, number of frets, pickups, woods and finishes. We shall explain what each of these features are all about to help you decide what is the best bass guitar for you.

Body Style:

Most electric bass guitars are solid-body electrics. But if you're looking for a rounder and more acoustic sound you should buy a semi-hollowbody bass instead.

Fingerboard:

Another thing to pay attention to when choosing the best bass for you is the fingerboard. If you're looking for a warm, natural sound, you need a bass with an uncoated fingerboard. With a coated fingerboard the sound produced is whining and trebly and it sustains longer.

Neck:

How do you know what neck to choose? It's pretty simple. The type of neck you choose is dependent on the size of your hands. There are different shapes for you to choose from including round, flat back, oval, "vee" and asymmetrical where the neck is thinner either on the treble or bass side. Naturally, four string basses usually come with smaller necks than 4 string or 5 string basses.

Scale Length:

The scale length is the distance between the nut and bridge saddle. It is the vibrating length of the string. The longer the scale the more distance there is between the frets. The scale length chosen is important because it is what influences the tonal quality of the notes and the tension of the string when a note is played.

What scale length is best? Is it a short scale of 30 inches, medium scale of 32 inches, standard scale of 34 inches, 5 string long scale of 35 inches, or an extra long scale of 36 inches? Well it all depends on the instrument you're thinking of getting and the tone you desire. Let's say you're interested in getting a five string bass for example and want a defined low B string sound. In that case the longer the neck, the better. For a four string bass a shorter scale will do and it helps you get the most out of the G string. If you have small hands, a short scale bass is probably the best bass guitar for you.

Intonation:

Pay close attention to intonation. This is what determines whether the various notes on your bass play in tune. On some basses, the distance between the frets can be a little off and as a result these basses don't play in tune, usually when you pass the 12th fret. As far as I'm concerned these basses are useless and you shouldn't waste money on one.

Tuning machines:

In choosing the best bass guitar for you, you must pay attention to the type of tuning head your bass guitar has. This is what you use to fine tune your instrument and hold pitch. Ensure that you get the best one available. An enclosed machine heads are better than open tuning machines. They resists rust and airborne corrosives and you therefore don't have to maintain or replace them often.

Number of Frets:

The number of frets you choose is also a matter of personal preference. You can choose between 21, 22, or 24 frets. Personally, I do not worry about this too much since most playing takes place in the lower frets anyway.

Pickups:

When it comes to sound, pickups are perhaps just as important as the strings on your bass. No matter how good the wood of the bass is, if the pickups are lacking, it's pointless. But you need the right pickup for your bass since one pickup may work very well on one bass and not on another. You also need the right combination of strings and pickup. There are many pickup models available and they are either active or passive. If you choose one that is active, keep in mind that you will have to keep replacing batteries.

Bolt-on necks and neck-throughs:

In terms of neck, the best bass for you is all about your personal preference. If you want one that is stronger, has better sustain and note resolution, buy a neck-through bass. But for a punchier sound, nothings beats a bolt-on neck; the only limitation is that they are more prone to having dead spots.

Wood:

When buying the best bass guitar for you, choice of wood is important. The wood you choose will affect the tone and weight of the instrument. If you're gonna be standing up to play it's wise to have one that is lightweight. Swamp ash wood is a lightweight soft wood that produces low mids and a punchy tone. Alder is another lightweight wood except that the tone it produces is more crisp. At the end of the day, although you should pay attention to the weight of the instrument, it's all about whether or not you like the sound.

Finish:

You can choose any finish you like since it doesn't really affect the sound of your electric bass.

All the best in finding the best bass guitar for you. As long as you have a clear understanding of what you need it should be easy to find the right bass guitar.

Mantius Cazaubon is a successful author and publisher of Bass Guitars Guide. A resource for bass guitar tips, reviews and information on choosing bass guitars.

Many thanks for reading our Guitar Pickups article

Guitar Pickup
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An Archtop Guitar, also known as the cello guitar, is a steel stringed acoustic or semi acoustic guitar with a full body and a uniquely arched belly. Its sound is associated more with jazz and blues music. It came into existence in the 1890s, invented by Orville Gibson the founder of the Gibson Guitar Corporation.

This type of a guitar has the following characteristics:

Two F-holes similar to members of the violin family.

A single cutaway, which allows access to the upper frets

Humbucker pickups

The top or the belly of the guitar is carved out of a block wood or heat pressed by using laminations. The lower parts of the two F-holes are partly covered by a scratch plate raised above the belly to prevent damping its vibration. They have thicker strings such as higher gauged round wound and flat wound, different from the conventional acoustic guitars specially suited for blues and jazz players. The guitar has an extra strength to allow and support thick strings.

Most Archtop guitars have a rich tone unamplified, and they have some microphone or pick up system inbuilt to it and are intended primarily to tone the sound. This is the same with semi-acoustic guitars. The pickups of a modern kind are placed in the bridge and or at the neck positions.

They also have tremolo arm system and Bigsby the type of vibrato device used in Electric guitar. This device allows musicians to bend the pitch of notes or the entire chords with pick hand to create different effects. Most tremolo systems cannot be fitted to the guitar as to install it you need to cut large holes in the belly to accommodate the system. But Bigsby and long tailpiece versions of the Gibson Vibrola can be both easily fitted to it.

Such guitars, be it acoustic or electric, can look very similar. The only distinguishing feature is that the latter has an electromagnetic pickup. Electric ones use thick steel strings, which adds tone and creates a unique resonance. Although these guitars are usually referred to the hallow body form, some solid body electric guitars are also considered as archtop guitars based strictly on the body and shape of the electric guitar. They have a distinct sound compared to the other electric guitars.

The only problem with the hollow bodied guitar is that when played amplified they tend to generate feedback. This is the main reason on why semi-archtop guitar is developed. The renewed interest in rockability (a form of popular music combination of rock n roll and bluegrass) music has led to the introduction of a rockability model electric archtop guitar with humbucking pickups.

Though factory production of acoustic archtop has died out but the L-7C acoustic one is still available from the Gibson custom shop. The existence of these guitars are likely to remain in the production in some form as long as the interest in jazz guitars and rock n roll music persist.

Victor Epand is an expert consultant for guitars, drums, and synthesizers. You can find the best marketplace for guitars, drums, and synthesizers at these sites: archtop guitars, semi-archtop guitars, and drums, drum sets.

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Humbucker Guitar Pickup

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